Reviews


Easy Summer Food: simple recipes for sunny days

Originally appeared on Canada Eats on 22 August 2006.

 

 


Easy Summer Food: Simple Recipes for Sunny Days
Julz Beresford, Maxine Clark, Clare Ferguson, Silvana Franco, Elsa Petersen-Schepelern, Louise Pickford, Fran Warde, and Lesley Waters
Ryland Peters & Small (2005)
$29.95, 238 pp.

 

 

At-A-Glance Overall: 3.75/5

 

The Breakdown

Recipe selection: 4/5

Writing: 4/5

Ease of use: 3.5/5

Yum factor: 3.5/5

 

Kitchen comfort: Novice-intermediate

Pro: Good selection of easy-to-prepare dishes.

Con: Possible recipe conversion may result in more culinary tinkering than necessary.

 


 

In the dog days of summer, when the mercury soars well above 30˚C (and sometimes even 40˚C), lighting the stove is the last thing I want to do. Yes, as always, I’m hungry for delicious food, but when it’s warm out, I gravitate towards nourishment that doesn’t take copious amounts of effort for either preparation or clean-up. I still want flavourful foods with clean, bright tastes, but I also want uncomplicated food. Most importantly, I don’t want anything heavy or arduous keeping me tied to my non-air conditioned kitchen.
Easy Summer Food collects about 100 recipes that celebrate sunny days and seasonal ingredients in straightforward, tasty ways.  Regardless of where you live or spend your summers, Julz Beresford, Maxine Clark, Clare Ferguson, Silvana Franco, Elsa Petersen-Schepelern, Louise Pickford, Fran Warde, and Lesley Waters—six popular Australian and British chefs and food writers—pooled their considerable know-how to ensure your two or three months of hot, sun-drenched weather won’t be lost in an overheated kitchen, or in the drive-through lane at the local burger joint.

The book has nine sections, including summer standards like salads, picnics, and grilling as well as lighter and sunnier ideas for vegetables, fish, meats, pastas, dips, desserts, and sweets. I think many dishes are equally at home doing dinner for one as they are at a casual backyard party with friends.

Every dish is beautifully illustrated with full-colour photographs. Each image—sometimes casual, sometimes rustic, and occasionally elegant—lets readers feel like they are wandering through someone’s backyard party or cottage weekend. More importantly, the book’s well-written recipes come with logical and cleanly presented instructions.

The recipes themselves are globally inspired: Asian Barbecue Sauce with Chinese notes; Fragrant Herb Couscous Salad that mixes Moroccan and Lebanese cuisines; a classic French Salad Niçoise; and Grilled Mexican-styled Cornish Hens. For those who love Spanish tapas, there are a number of undemanding dishes to sample. From marinated anchovies to chorizo in red wine to marinated olives, any combination of these easy-to-prepare foods can are just what’s needed to avoid heat stroke when putting together a casual summer buffet supper.

I have a couple issues with this book. I don’t think the problems are show stoppers but, to some readers, they may be cause for consternation. It feels like a somewhat rushed American adaptation of a British or Australian cookbook—I haven’t seen the UK version, but some weights and measures seem a bit off. For example, when I used the requisite tablespoon of oil to sauté some shrimp, I found I needed an extra splash of oil to make the recipe work—perhaps I used larger shrimp than their recipe testers did, but I don’t know. I also wonder if produce size was taken into consideration when the recipes were converted—I know of visiting Europeans who think North American produce are massive siblings to what’s found in their local markets. And lastly, important information (ie. how to do measurements) is hidden—I accidentally found it on the copyright page.

I think the authors intended this recipe collection to be all things to all cooks. However, when using “easy” in a cookery book’s title, there’s an automatic presumption that all the recipes can be made by a novice cook. Whereas I think that’s technically true for this book, and can in some cases provide instant gratification for very little effort, half of Easy Summer Food’s recipes that I tried needed an experienced palate to provide either a sense of proportion or a bit of…interest: keeping a taste bud or two on alert for balance may be a little more necessary than usual.

And which recipes did I try? The book beckoned me to try more than I had time for. When I first read through it, I looked for four recipes to test. I marked more than 15 pages. Somehow, I narrowed my selections down to my original target number:




Avocado Salad
I love the contrasts in this salad: buttery soft avocado; crisp, salty bacon; peppery bitter greens; and a slightly spicy dressing. Apart from frying the bacon, it took me a whole of three minutes to make this salad. Will I make it again? You bet.



Beet Hummus
I’ll be honest with you: I really dislike boiled beets, but the photograph was so beguiling, I had to make this dip. The hummus’ breathtaking puce colour screams late summer. It is sweet and, thanks to a cunning combination of horseradish and garlic, not only is the beety taste slightly masked, but there's also a hot bite that sneaks up on the unsuspecting nibbler. Even though I’m not fully converted to the veg itself, this recipe will probably stay in my repertoire.



Chilled Coconut Soup with Sizzling Shrimp
I won’t mince words—this was the most disappointing recipe of the four. It has a pleasing sourness that’s accented by fresh mint and pepped up by sweet and spicy shrimp. When chilled properly, this could be a very refreshing cold soup, but the broth needs something extra. If you try it, add a squeeze of lemon and perhaps a little bit of ginger to the purée. Or you could do what I did and use the broth (doctored with ginger and coriander seed) to marinate some chicken pieces and then bake it off. I won’t be making this soup again. The shrimp, probably, but the soup, no.



Rosemary and Lemon Roasted Chicken
I’ve made versions of this dish before, although usually as a whole roast chicken. It's an incredibly easy and stress-free way to make a Mediterranean chicken dish. The meat was tender, with a lovely piney taste of rosemary.  Unfortunately, it was too lemony, to the point that I think it should have been entitled Rosemary and Chicken Roasted Lemons. For this dish to work really well, it needs the deep, flavourful sweetness of roasted garlic and only one or two lemons at most (not the three the recipe calls for). But otherwise, I think this is a perfect dinner-party dish: so deceptively easy, diners may think you’ve spent hours in the kitchen.

Easy Summer Food is the type of cookbook that could give the novice home chef a sense of accomplishment through near-instant gratification. It also lets imaginations run wild with tasty and simple lunch and supper possibilities that showcase the best of the season, freeing the more experienced cook who may be stuck in a warm-weather dining rut. It can, at the very least, help you develop your own palate and sense of culinary balance. The authors remind us that tasty food doesn’t have to be complicated, and doesn’t have to bind us to our kitchens for an inordinately long time.  But more importantly, they instill in us the belief that you don’t have to be an expert to create delicious summer food.

 





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